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Hi Reader, Come on, 'fess up. You think that stuffing is the star of Thanksgiving dinner. I know I certainly do. Sure, turkey is great. Smothered in gravy, it's even better. But it's the carb-loading of stuffing that makes me oh so happy on Turkey Day. I love it so much that in my cookbook, The New Portuguese Table, I offer up two stuffings for Thanksgiving. You'll find both at the bottom of this newsletter. Also, some of you were asking more about turkey stock. Here's a video I made a few years ago. I didn't have a recipe. I bought some turkey necks and chicken gizzards and tossed in stuff from the fridge and pantry. A great stock is really that easy. My Best Thanksgiving
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Hi Reader, Some July evenings, turning on the oven is the last thing the kitchen needs. It is too warm, the day was too long, and a 400-degree box running for an hour only makes the room worse.Those are the nights I do not cook so much as assemble.A good no-cook dinner is not a sad dinner. A platter of cold shrimp, a bean salad with real bite, a watermelon-and-feta plate, bread and good butter, and you have fed people properly without raising the temperature of a single room.For the next hot...
Hi Reader, Cherries are the ones I eat standing at the counter, spitting pits into my hand, telling myself I will save some for a tart. I rarely do.Plums and apricots hold longer. They keep for days in the bowl, soften over the better part of a week, and make the best baking of the summer if I get to them in time.This is the short window when all three overlap. Cherries at their dark, sweet peak, plums turning jammy, apricots gone soft and honeyed, all in the market at once.The cherries go...
Hi Reader, I have opinions about fried chicken, and I have had them challenged at more than one family table where everyone else also had opinions.Buttermilk or no buttermilk. Flour or cornmeal. Cast iron or a deep pot. Plain or Nashville-hot enough to make your eyes water.Every version is a slightly different argument about crunch and seasoning and how much heat is too much, and I am happy to make all of them to find out. Rules Before Rankings Brine or buttermilk-soak first, no shortcuts. A...