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Hi Reader, Come on, 'fess up. You think that stuffing is the star of Thanksgiving dinner. I know I certainly do. Sure, turkey is great. Smothered in gravy, it's even better. But it's the carb-loading of stuffing that makes me oh so happy on Turkey Day. I love it so much that in my cookbook, The New Portuguese Table, I offer up two stuffings for Thanksgiving. You'll find both at the bottom of this newsletter. Also, some of you were asking more about turkey stock. Here's a video I made a few years ago. I didn't have a recipe. I bought some turkey necks and chicken gizzards and tossed in stuff from the fridge and pantry. A great stock is really that easy. My Best Thanksgiving
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Hi Reader, I have cooked roast chickens enough to know one uncomfortable truth.There is no perfect roast chicken.I know. Practically kitchen blasphemy.For years I chased The One. I'd read another cookbook, tweak the oven temperature, salt earlier, salt later, flip the bird, don't flip the bird, baste religiously, never baste at all. Every famous chef seemed convinced they'd finally cracked the code, and there I was, dutifully buying yet another chicken in the name of research. It's a tough...
Hi Reader, There is one step between good corn and forgettable corn, and it happens before you turn on the stove.Everything else is negotiable. The butter. The Chile. The grill or the pot. The salad or the chowder.But the first choice, the one that decides whether the corn on the plate tastes like August or like a memory of it, is how you handle it in the ten minutes after you bring it home.I did not always know this. For years, I bought corn like a person buying flowers: enthusiastically, in...
Hi Reader, It's Monday evening. You didn't shop. The counter still has the last of the weekend's tomatoes, a zucchini that's seen better days, and a hunk of Parmesan that always looks smaller than you remember buying.You have everything you need.Pasta forgives. Salt the water, boil it hard, and let whatever's in front of you become dinner. A handful of herbs, one last eggplant, shrimp if you're feeling flush, or the ragù you froze in July.The kitchen fills with the sound of garlic in olive...