Mushrooms Are Having Their Moment. Here Are Mine. 🍄


Hi Reader,

I'll admit it: Mushrooms and I got off to a rocky start.

As a kid, they came from little cans, already sliced into pale, rubbery coins that squeaked when you bit into them. The person responsible for that introduction should've been sentenced to peeling shallots for eternity.

Then, years later, I tasted a pan of properly browned mushrooms.

Not steamed. Not crowded into a skillet until they went gray and wet. Properly browned.

The edges were crisp and the centers were almost meaty. Butter, garlic, and thyme pulled out a flavor so deep and woodsy it was hard to believe I was eating a fungus. (Let's be honest, that's a terrible marketing word.)

By the middle of the month, I'm a little obsessed. Farmers' markets suddenly overflow with oyster, shiitake, cremini, chanterelles, and whatever odd little beauties the forager managed to uncover that week. I always buy more than I intended, convinced I'll need every last one.

And somehow, I always do.

Mushrooms make an ordinary dinner taste as if you've splurged at a cozy little restaurant tucked down a cobblestone alley. Not bad for something that spends most of its life hiding under leaves.

The Case for a Hotter Pan

  • Skip the shrink-wrapped trays. A mushroom in a sealed tray sweats. Loose in a paper bag, it stays dry enough to brown when it hits the pan.
  • Leave them alone. Once they hit the pan, stop stirring. Thirty seconds of contact does nothing; three minutes gives you deep, golden edges.
  • Think beyond side dishes. Mushrooms are hearty enough to anchor a risotto, a lasagna, a soup, a pasta, or a vegetarian Wellington.
  • Layer the umami. Parmesan, soy sauce, porcini, miso, thyme, garlic, and a splash of sherry or white wine all deepen what mushrooms already have.
  • Add a second variety. A handful of shiitakes tossed into a pan of cremini changes the pan entirely. Two kinds cost a dollar or two more. Why cook with one?

WHAT'S INSIDE...

Wild Mushroom Risotto

This wild mushroom risotto from Giada de Laurentiis has intense mushroom flavor, thanks to the addition of both fresh mushrooms and dried porcini, along with plenty of Parmesan cheese.
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Pasta With Caramelized Mushrooms & Crispy Prosciutto

Add plenty of garlic and thyme to the pasta and caramelized mushrooms, along with crispy shards of prosciutto for good measure and the result is a savory, earthy pasta that’s easy to love.
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Spicy Mushroom Lasagna

⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ 4.86 from 14 votes

This spicy mushroom lasagna combines layers of mushrooms, creamy sauce, and tender pasta in spectacular fashion.
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Porcini Beef Ragu

If you are a fan of mushroom flavor but do not like the texture, this is for you. The ground porcini produces mushroom essence without the infamous texture. If there are any leftovers—which is rarely the case—they can be frozen. I recommend doubling the ingredients.
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Mushroom Barley Soup

What makes this mushroom barley soup so satisfying is a mix of mushrooms, carrots, celery, onion, and tender barley. Easy, fast, and eminently slurp-able.
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Mushroom, Leek, & Gruyère Tart

⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ 4.95 from 17 votes

This mushroom, leek, and Gruyère tart, made with puff pastry, topped with garlic and thyme-infused leeks and mushrooms and Gruyère cheese is an easy appetizer or light vegetarian entrée.
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Mushroom Wellingtons With Spinach

This mushroom wellington with spinach is essentially a meaty portobello mushroom and spinach-walnut filling in flaky puff pastry. A spectacular vegan and vegetarian option, whether for Thanksgiving or any time of year. And you can easily assemble it ahead of time and bake it at the last moment.
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Stuffed Mushrooms

This stuffed mushrooms, a favorite starter of Italian trattorias in the 1970s, is a delicious classic that’s worthy, I feel, of a place in this book. As a former vegetarian, I would be happy to be offered this dish to replace meat at any meal.
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Pan-Roasted Mushrooms

Pan-roasted mushrooms are first cooked until golden and crispy, then seasoned with butter, shallots, chives, thyme, and garlic. This method results in mushrooms that absorb loads of rich flavors and aren't soggy.
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Pickled Wild Mushrooms

Pickled wild mushrooms are such a wonderfully European thing. So easy to toss together. So wise in capturing something at the height of its season. So understated and yet sophisticated. Here's how to make them.
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