The Joy of "Shoulder Season" Cooking


Hi Reader,

April is a liar.

It gives you one perfect day—all sun and freaking Disney birdsong and the delusional belief that you’re done with wool socks forever—then, 24 hours later, you’re back at the stove in a sweater, wondering who the hell thought a salad was a good idea.

This is why I’m such a sucker for shoulder-season cooking. Not winter food, exactly. I’m done with the big, brooding braises that taste like survival and require hibernation afterward. But I’m not quite ready for meals that barely graze the pan and call it dinner.

I want something in between.

A pot on the stove. A little wine. Some garlic. Maybe leeks, maybe fennel, maybe a shower of herbs at the end that makes the whole thing smell less like March and more like spring finally got the memo. I want tenderness without heaviness. Comfort without the cream or demi-glace upholstery.

These strange, in-between weeks deserve their own kind of cooking: softer, brighter, a little lighter on its feet. The kind of meal that warms you up without dragging you down.

video preview

Oh, and for what it's worth, we had our patio power washed. (Wishful thinking, right?!)

How to Braise Without Falling Back Into February

  • Pick meats that don’t lumber or ruminate. Chicken, lamb, even a lighter cut of pork all braise beautifully without the brawn of beef chuck or short ribs.
  • Reach for white, not red. White wine, cider, vermouth, even a brothy stock will keep the pot lively. Red wine can feel like winter refusing to leave.
  • Let the vegetables pull their weight. Leeks, fennel, carrots, spring onions, peas—these bring sweetness and grace and make the whole dish feel more awake.
  • Finish like it’s spring. Lemon zest, chopped herbs, a spoonful of something tangy—these little flourishes lift a braise from cozy to compelling.
  • Keep it comforting, not coma-inducing. This is not the moment for culinary sandbags. You want dinner to soothe you, not pin you to the banquette.

Podcast: Jessica Battilana of King Arthur Baking Co.

First, I'd like to apologize to all of you who accepted the invitation for yesterday's podcast at 12 PM ET. We had more technical difficulties than a Netflix live event. It took Amy and me two hours to figure it out. By then, we both were wiped out, but we were determined to broadcast. So here it is… A day late.

WHAT'S INSIDE...

Julia Child's Coq Au Vin

⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ 4.74 from 67 votes

This coq au vin recipe strays a little from the original but I don't think that's to its detriment. This updated version of the simple French chicken stew uses a robust brown chicken stock, mushrooms, onions, bacon, and red wine.
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Creamy French Chicken Stew

⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ 4.79 from 38 votes

This version of blanquette is slightly simplified in that it doesn’t involve making a roux but it’s no less flavourful. Serve this with plain boiled rice and garnish with fresh thyme leaves and parsley for a simple, comforting meal that comes together quickly, even on a weeknight.
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Braised Chicken With Tomatillos

This braised chicken with tomatillos has a slightly tart green sauce made from tomatillos, onions, peppers, garlic, lime, and cilantro that's perfect with chicken cooked until falling apart tender, whether on the stovetop or in the slow cooker.
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Braised Pork Loin With Rosemary

⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ 4.87 from 15 votes

This braised pork loin with rosemary is a simple Sunday supper. Pork loin is studded with rosemary, seared with onion and garlic, and braised in wine until tender. A pan sauce of pork drippings, vinegar, olive oil, and mustard lends a nice acidity to the dish.
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Braised Carrots With Orange & Rosemary

⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ 4.7 from 10 votes

These braised carrots are a showstopping side dish that's gently cooked with orange and rosemary until the carrots are tender, buttery, and fragrant.
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Wine-Braised Pork Shoulder

⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ 4.93 from 27 votes

This braised pork with red wine is an easy, set-it-and-forget-it one-pot meal. Made with meltingly tender shredded pork shoulder, red onions, and a rich red wine and herb sauce, it boasts French overtones but without any fussiness.
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Braised New Potatoes

These braised new potatoes basically take a bath in butter. French style. What results is the exact same rich taste and creamy texture of potatoes roasted with your favorite hunk of meat—but in only 30 minutes and on the stovetop.
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Portuguese Pork & Clams | Porco À Alentejana

⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ 4.78 from 44 votes

This combination of Portuguese pork and clams, also known as porco a Alentejana, is a superbly comforting and oh-so-satisfying dish of marinated pork shoulder and briny clams in a white wine and red pepper sauce.
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