Stews I Learned from Other Kitchens


Hi Reader,

One of the great pleasures of being a food writer is getting invited into other people’s kitchens.
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Not literally, necessarily. Although I’ve happily done plenty of that, too. I mean discovering how another cook, another family, another country takes the same basic proposition (meat, vegetables, liquid, heat) and turns it into something unmistakably theirs.
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Stew may be the best example.
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The One can always tell when I’ve gone down one of these rabbit holes because the spice cabinet is open, three cookbooks are splayed across the counter, and I’m muttering things like, “Now that’s interesting.”
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A French stew might arrive creamy and elegant. Moroccan meatballs are all warm spice and swagger. Lamb and beans slowly collapse into each other. Cod and chorizo put the sea and the smokehouse in the same bowl.
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Different ingredients. Different histories. Every one of them built the same way: something good in a pot, and enough time to stop worrying about it.
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That is why I keep making stew. It reminds me there are a thousand ways to get to comfort.

What a Stew Needs

  • Brown first, simmer second. Whether it’s beef, pork, lamb, chicken, or meatballs, proper browning creates the deep, savory foundation that makes a stew taste as though it’s been cooking since the Eisenhower administration.
  • Don’t drown the pot. Stew isn’t soup. Add enough liquid for everything to cook gently, but remember you’re after a rich, concentrated sauce, not a swimming pool.
  • One stew is not another stew. Red wine, warm spices, beans, chorizo, and cream. These aren’t interchangeable decorations. They’re what give each stew its particular character, so resist the urge to throw the entire pantry into the pot.
  • Low and slow wins. A hard boil can toughen meat and break up anything delicate. Hold it just below a boil and let time do what no amount of frantic stirring can.
  • Cook one you did not grow up with. The recipes below come from several different kitchens, and the fastest way to learn what a stew can be is to make the one that looks least familiar.

WHAT'S INSIDE...

​Beef Stew With Red Wine​

This beef stew with red wine, made with beef chuck roast and a rich red wine sauce, can be made in your Instant Pot or braised in the oven.
​☞ ​Try this recipe​

​Creamy French Chicken Stew​

⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ 4.8 from 39 votes

This version of blanquette is slightly simplified in that it doesn’t involve making a roux but it’s no less flavourful. Serve this with plain boiled rice and garnish with fresh thyme leaves and parsley for a simple, comforting meal that comes together quickly, even on a weeknight.
​☞ ​Try this recipe​

​Wine-Braised Pork Shoulder​

⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ 4.94 from 29 votes

This braised pork with red wine is an easy, set-it-and-forget-it one-pot meal. Made with meltingly tender shredded pork shoulder, red onions, and a rich red wine and herb sauce, it boasts French overtones but without any fussiness.
​☞ ​Try this recipe​

​Slow Cooked Lamb & Cannellini Beans​

This slow cooked lamb and cannellini beans is an oh-so-comforting stew made with tender braised boneless lamb, white beans, vegetables and topped with parsley and lemon gremolata. The perfect thing for winter.
​☞ ​Try this recipe​

​Cod & Chorizo Stew​

A perfect meal for cold-weather nights. The combination of chorizo, chickpeas, honey, tomatoes, skinless cod fillets, and a handful of curly kale make a filling and impressive stew.
​☞ ​Try this recipe​

​Moroccan Meatballs ~ Kefta Tagine​

These Moroccan meatballs, or kefta tagine, are made with spiced ground beef or lamb, and bathed with a buttery saffron-cilantro sauce.
​☞ ​Try this recipe​

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